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Can I suggest you find out if there are any being built in your area, go and have a look at them. Find out what you like and don't like. If you are in the UK , go to the UK national kit car show in Malvern. We all have different reasons for the builds that we are creating and they will all be...

"Z3 Donor - Options and other rebody questions -> 507 Build the "green one"" has morphed into my build thread, but not much to post as it's all rubbing down and fitting panels at the moment .. and you have all been through that phase !!!

The ones fitted by stb10 are option2, with professional chrome plating and shipped from china, mine will probably be the same, however mine are slightly tapered to the back with a curve along the top, not true to the original 507 but I like the look.

Hope this post is of interest to anyone thinking of creating cosmetic side vents (or any custom parts!). You may have noticed some recent pictures on the Tribute Facebook site, this is how the vents were created. Thanks to 10stb for his input and templates from his build. The main dimensions...

Sounds like you are going to have a busy few months, but it is all coming together.

On my 507 I am using handles without locks, I have cut down the original z3 door lock and positioned it just below my new door handle so my original remote locks and key locks still work

My heat pads are between the foam and the leather seat cover, the white connector is for the seat motor, the black connector is for the heated seats and the 2pin small white connector at the back is for the seat belt pretensioner. The cheapest way to reset the airbag warning light, provided...

I am at about the same place, however I have only taken off the ridges along the joints, so I guess I need to take a closer look at the panels to see if they need further smoothing off. Agree with your comment about Chris and Dan at Tribute, I am very pleased with the quality of my kit.

Only took half a day to fit the passenger handle and lock so maybe all the time spent on the drivers door was worth it! 🤔

You have been busy over the Christmas break, I am working my way forward from the rear tub, so I want to finish the doors before I sort out the bonnet, had a break from it over Christmas, back to it on 6th January.

I like the wheels but not sure that the faux knock-on spinners add anything.

Thanks for this it is interesting to see both the similarities and the differences, it is closer than I thought.

Door handle and original Z3 door lock both fitted and working fine :) Just need to find/make a bezel for the lock cylinder - ill fit it when I do the final fix. Grassbank handles are easy to fit and work well, just use the template supplied by Russell and follow the post by Piran...

Just tested a piece of the chrome wrap that I am going to use, when cold a 23cm strip will stretch by 3cm before it breaks, with heat it will stretch 5cm before it breaks, with only minor loss of shine. That is more than I expected and I don't expect to get the same amount of stretch when I...

I am definitely suffering from ... measure, trim, measure, trim, try, measure, trim....repeat... At some point I am going to have to start fixing parts in their final place.

Take an offcut from your wrap and see the effect of heat on it (it will be different for each manufacturer), you should find that it shrinks slightly with heat, so you don't want to heat it too much before fitting it, unless you need that section pre shrunk. Also has anyone tried Knifeless Tape...

Thanks, I started down that route, I just haven't used enough spacers. I see you reversed the bolt - good idea that will make it so much easier to refit it.

Has anyone else noticed that when the bonnet is closed and you fully open the driver's door, the front of the door skin is pushed backwards by the bonnet hinge. This is a picture of the front edge of the driver's door skin hitting the bonnet hinge and a picture of the door skin pushed backwards...

I am assuming that the door skins go into the slot that the rubber seal came out of and that you cut off that part of the rubber seal before reattaching the seal to the top of the door skin. I had originally thought that the skin slid in-between the glass and the door but this is obviously wrong.

All, I am just starting on the door skins, do you have to remove all the rubber seal from the top of the door so that the new skin can slide in place or do you cut off the top section. Also I assume that a new rubber seal needs to be fitted to form a watertight seal with the glass. I couldn't...