Rebody Mittaws 250 SWB Coupe Build

[DaveP]

All, if you are interested in BC Racing coilovers for Rebody cars
Try contacting ClassicCoachWorks.org as they are an agent for them and can offer advice. They have fitted them in their builds.
I have them on my Kobra and no where down low on their adjustment. They are not as nice as Bilsteins etc but you do have the flexibility

 

[mittaw]

Do you have a link to the supplier's producg page?

The rears. Are the adjusted all the way down or is there much more to go if required.

Here you go

2024 - BR Series Coilovers

www.bc-racing.co.uk

The rear is pretty much all the way down. It's will have to go up with the new wheels soon

 

[Pond]

It's will have to go up with the new wheels soon

Why? Are your new wheels/tyres a larger circumference than the old? If so, how much by?

 

[mittaw]

Why? Are your new wheels/tyres a larger circumference than the old? If so, how much by?

The wheels are only 15 inch but the wall on tyres are taller so i suspect it will go up a little . Not much but I suspect some.

 

[Pond]

The wheels are only 15 inch but the wall on tyres are taller so i suspect it will go up a little . Not much but I suspect some.

What profile tyres? If 65 they should be around the same. My new wires are 15" with 205/65 tyres. The existing are 17" with 225/45 and 245/40. The RR is slightly bigger on the new wheels but the arch gap is only 9mm less.
I need to find a LOT more than 9mm on the rear to get it to sit right TBH......hence the idea of coilovers.

 

[mittaw]

What profile tyres? If 65 they should be around the same. My new wires are 15" with 205/65 tyres. The existing are 17" with 225/45 and 245/40. The RR is slightly bigger on the new wheels but the arch gap is only 9mm less.
I need to find a LOT more than 9mm on the rear to get it to sit right TBH......hence the idea of coilovers.

My tyres are Blockley 205/70VR15W so the tyre wall is just slight taller. Not much but a little. I should hopefully have them on next week so will post up image and if need adjusting

 

[Pond]

My tyres are Blockley 205/70VR15W so the tyre wall is just slight taller. Not much but a little. I should hopefully have them on next week so will post up image and if need adjusting

That's around 6% larger circumference than standard. Just be careful they don't adversely affect your ASC/DSC. There is a theory that anything more than 3-4% different to standard could potentially cause problems. And of course your speedo will read miles out.

 

[Duncodin]

That's around 6% larger circumference than standard. Just be careful they don't adversely affect your ASC/DSC. There is a theory that anything more than 3-4% different to standard could potentially cause problems. And of course your speedo will read miles out.

I suppose if rear wheels were humongous and front wheels where tiny then the computer would see the different speeds and be confused and potentially raise an ASC alarm.

But if all 4 wheels are the same then the computer only sees the wheel rotations. The speedo will be wrong but the computer won't know that because the only thing it sees is rotations without knowing how far the car actually travels per rotation.

 

[mittaw]

I suppose if rear wheels were humongous and front wheels where tiny then the computer would see the different speeds and be confused and potentially raise an ASC alarm.

But if all 4 wheels are the same then the computer only sees the wheel rotations. The speedo will be wrong but the computer won't know that because the only thing it sees is rotations without knowing how far the car actually travels per rotation.

As above, I understand so long as the wheels are the same on all four corners the ratio stays the same and doesnt trip the computer to thinking wheels are turing at different rates.

 

[mittaw]

Been a bit quiet on here as had to take some time out for the build as needed to find somewhere to paint it. Ive decided to do it myself and so now have a small unit in which to do it. Car is now MoT'd and V5 has been updated. Just needs painting now. Had some fun driving though and lots of head turns and enquiries at the petrol pump while in grey primer

However have had a chip in my chrome window frame. I've tried to get the bonded door panel off but it would be too destructive but ive managed to find a way of removing the window frame without taking door panel off. I'll post up latet for anyone interested in doing this before the door skin panel goes on. Wish I'd done this first... but hey ho, at least I'm doing it now before painting so it can be v removed in the future. It was always a concern of mine if the chrome needed redoing at some point.

Doing a lot of prep work for the painting but discovered this guide dust. It's fantastic at pulling out both the big and small indifferences in the body panels. The panels feel a lot better using this and removes a lot of time as you can see the low and highs easier and quicker than paint. Very much recommended.

So build technically complete, just tinkering with a few panel gaps that that I don't quite like and then building a paint booth.

 

[mittaw]

I'm prepping for painting now, starting at the rear and working forward. The car has a good layer of filler primer on it already which helps define the overall shape and removes the mould joins, but it still needs quite a bit of blocking back for painting finish quality.

I'm really uncomfortable with the panel gaps around the boot and generally. The kit is good but it comes out of a mould so the panel edges are quite rounded in places. I want sharper edges on the panels and consistent gaps so there's quite a bit of work to do.

The boot needed a lot of work in particular. It's higher than the body at the top centre, but lower at both of the edges. I'd previously worked up the body a little under the rear window but I can't push it too far as it changes the profile across the back too much. To make it all fit I've kept the top of the boot as the datum point and built up either side to bring up to the body line either side of the boot. Ive put in the rubber seal so that the height of thr boot is right.

I've then created the panel gaps in the fibreglass filler around the boot edges. To do these I created a small tool with two razor blades either side of a metal bar all of which are about 4mm wide.

I've then closed the boot with masking tape on the underside of it and filled across the gap with fibreglass filler so that both sides are level. Once its starting to dry I've run thr razor blade tool around the gap to cut a perfect gap between the two. Once dry I've cleaned up the edges and sanded both sides level.

The corners needed a bit of care but with some work they have come up well enough at this stage.

Next issue was resolving the issue of a slight warp in the boot so both sides were not symmetrical enough for me. I've blocked back the boot a few times from the primer and worked out the warp with some additional fibreglass filler. Its been flatted back a few times to get a good natural curve across the boot lid to reflect the profile of the car and some more primer as rough guide coat for next stage.

I'm pleased how this has come out but its been a good weeks work, perhaps 30 hours in on this alone, including working the inside ledge where the rubber seal sits. I've also done the underside of the boot lid as I dont want to hide that.

I've also had to work up the rear body profile where the boot handle is located to run consistent with the edge of the boot in its final closed position.

Boot flatted back with 320 with a little glaze on it and some filler primer to uses as a guide coat for final blocking back ready for final primer coat. I've also got to fill a few small bits around the new panel gap edge on the body I'm not quite comfortable with, as well as the underside in some areas....and where i put my thumb into the primer at the top!!

Hoping to finish it this week and move onto the roof and side panels.

I reckon its probably end of November before I'm got anywhere near where I'll want to be for first run of final primer.

 

[Pond]

My bootlid was my nemesis on mine aswell. I found that no matter how much you try and shape, fill, sand, fill etc etc, the Z3 hinges move a tiny bit every time you open and close the boot, as there isn't the weight of a steel lid.

Just remember....when all is painted in the same colour, slight imperfections in shut lines disappear to the eye (although YOU know they are there, no-one else will ever notice).

The panel gaps on your boot look spot on to me from the photos. You can spend the rest of your life chasing 'perfection'. It will never happen with a GRP kit. And even if you do get it perfect, give it a month and it will move!!

 

[mittaw]

My bootlid was my nemesis on mine aswell. I found that no matter how much you try and shape, fill, sand, fill etc etc, the Z3 hinges move a tiny bit every time you open and close the boot, as there isn't the weight of a steel lid.

Just remember....when all is painted in the same colour, slight imperfections in shut lines disappear to the eye (although YOU know they are there, no-one else will ever notice).

The panel gaps on your boot look spot on to me from the photos. You can spend the rest of your life chasing 'perfection'. It will never happen with a GRP kit. And even if you do get it perfect, give it a month and it will move!!

100% on the boot lid in a different position everytime you fit it..ha ha ...made it harder like you say. Pain in the butt!

'Perfect is the enemy of good'...totally get it. I just want to get comfortable in my own skin i did the best I could and no one will spot the things I won't be happy with for sure.

Yours looks great by the way!!

 

[Pond]

I just want to get comfortable in my own skin i did the best I could

That is the secret IMO. I was beating myself up that mine wasn't '100% perfect' everywhere. Then I realised they just can't be. It's impossible.
So I think you have to not be a perfectionist, or you will be forever unhappy.

If it makes you feel better, no-one will ever notice. There is also an argument for the "in the 1960s panel gaps were all over the place, so imperfect is more period" attitude.
Don't get me wrong; I wanted (and still do want) perfection. But there is a limit that you have to stop at, or it will drive you mental.

 

[Duncodin]

. . .
. .
I was beating myself up that mine wasn't '100% perfect' everywhere. . . .
. .
. .

Not 100% I'm aiming for around 50%. . 45? Maybe.