Replacing track rod ends - special tool required?

[John_B]

Hi gang,

I need to replace the track rod ends (inners and outers) on my 2.8. I just went for a realignment after doing the lower control arms. The mechanic at the garage was explaining that some nuts were free but others weren't and that there was not enough thread to adjust the tracking. I should have persisted but I had asked him to explain it about 3 times and I just wasn't getting it (probably because I haven't done anything with them before), so I just nodded along. I didn't even know they were made of two parts before he said they both needed replacing!

Something that concerned me was he was talking about needing a special tool, like a really deep socket, to reach far into the steering rack (over the inner track rod) to undo some clips? I have come home and found helpful guide on Pelican Parts, but no mention of this special tool, in fact it looks as though the nut on the end of the inner track rod is easily accessible when the dust boot is pulled back (Figure 7) - is that right, or have they skipped a step?

BMW Z3 Tie Rod End Replacement | 1996-2002 | Pelican Parts DIY Maintenance Article

Loose tie rod ends or steering? Follow the steps in the etch article to see how to replace them.

www.pelicanparts.com

I'm inclined to trust the Pelican Parts guide more than this particular garage - not that I have any issue with that garage, but they are primarily tyre fitters rather than anything else (not Kwikfit lol)

 

[Delk]

I dont know of any special tool and did mine a few years ago and its just as Pelican parts describes.

 

[John_B]

Brilliant, thank you Delk

 

[t-tony]

Just a large adjustable spanner (30mm. IIRC) to unscrew the track rod from the end of the steering rack. Do not have have the large nut far from the end of the rack housing when you loosen it or you could bend/twist the rack itself.

Tony.

 

[Jimbob_OD]

It’ll be this part they’re talking about

I used a track rod tool like the one below when I did mine but a large adjustable spanner will do the trick if you have one big enough. It’s not a difficult job.

 

[t-tony]

Can't see the point when when the fitting has a hexagonal face for a spanner. By the time you've clamped that thing on to the track rod it would be off?
And that is exactly how not to loosen the track rod with it so far out of the rack housing. Easy to bend the rack.


Tony..

 

[Jimbob_OD]

Because when I started my Z3 project I was a total novice and that’s what they used in the YouTube video I watched on how to do it.

You live and learn, eh?!

 

[t-tony]

Because when I started my Z3 project I was a total novice and that’s what they used in the YouTube video I watched on how to do it.

You live and learn, eh?!

That you do mate. That you do..

Tony.

 

[John_B]

Thanks all, I have a 32mm spanner, so shouldn't need to jerry-rig anything

this was the special tool they told me I'd need...

clearly not when it comes to the Z3!

Replacement track rod ends have been ordered, hopefully I can get them fitted and another go at an alignment before MOT in a fortnight!

 

[colb]

I changed these on a 3.0l Z3 and used an adjustable spanner on the flats at the rack end after first removing the outer ball joint on the track rod. With the adjustable snugly fitted on the rack end it didn't take a lot of pressure to undo it. I do have the tool set posted by @John_B but using that would necessitate taking the outer ball joint off and unscrewing the outer rod off to slide the tube up the inner rod., the inner outer rod joints will probably be a bugger to undo given the time they have been on there. Far simpler to use the adjustable spanner and take inner and outer off together. Taking the old ones off as one piece also allows you to accurately measure the length of the two connected so you can set the new ones up to the right length. You will of course need to have the cars tracking done at a garage to ensure spot on adjustment.

 

[Duncodin]

Being self-taught in the days before i could afford to pay for any work and long before all this inter-web m'larky I had to look at something and figure out how to do it myself.

I didn't know, before today, that a special tool existed.

what do the special tools do? Is it to clamp the rack so that there's no sideways or rotational force on the rack when putting all your weight on a spanner on that hex nut. Or is the clamp used to clamp onto the hexnut and rotate without hanging myself off the end of the rack?



As tony said though, with the rack that far over (in picture) it's just asking for a bent rack.

 

[John_B]

Thanks Colb, having the tracking done (or specifically not being able to have the tracking done...) is what has prompted these shenanigans in the first place, so having it done once the new rods are fitted will be top of the agenda!

Duncodin, I don't have the tool and I'm not buying the tool, I only mentioned it as the mechanic told me I'd need one. The basis (I think) being that the nut would be deep within the rack housing and inaccessible otherwise - which is clearly not the case with the Z3. As far as I can tell it's essentially an extra-deep socket with a bit of engineering to allow it to get past the ball joint and onto the flats of the nut?

 

[PYX]

Just jumping on this while the topic is hot, I’m on with mine at the moment. Mine has a locking ring between the inner tie rod and the rack.
Question how do I get it off and can it be reused ?
None of the how to info covers this part so don’t want to steam in and damage anything.

 

[Andyboy]

Stillsons are the perfect tool. Fit new lock washers if fitted and threadlock the new track rod.

I always replace the entire track rod, mainly because the track rod end is invariably rusted solid onto the track rod.

 

[PYX]

Stillsons are the perfect tool. Fit new lock washers if fitted and threadlock the new track rod.

I always replace the entire track rod, mainly because the track rod end is invariably rusted solid onto the track rod.

Thanks Andyboy, do I just unscrew as normal or do I need to do something with the locking ring washer first ?

 

[PYX]

Just had a closer look, I’m assuming I have to bend the flatted off part of the washer clear of the track rod before it will unscrew.
Then replace with new, seems the washers are £40.00 each

 

[Pingu]

Mine cost £20 each from eBay (bmMiniParts), but I only bought one, as the other wasn't too badly damaged.

Make sure that you do all the work on the trackrod end as close to the steering rack as possible, or you will damage the internal seals.

If memory serves, I used a ground down 32mm open-ended spanner to undo the trackrod end, but you can use a big pair of Stilson's if you don't mind damaging the outside of the trackrod ball holder.

 

[Althulas]

Just had a closer look, I’m assuming I have to bend the flatted off part of the washer clear of the track rod before it will unscrew.
Then replace with new, seems the washers are £40.00 each View attachment 331255View attachment 331255

A lot cheaper here https://amzn.eu/d/af5YQyH

 

[t-tony]

Those "tab washers" are reusable, they're not a one-use item.

Tony.

ps. Much like "split-pins" are reusable. Just be careful.when removing them.

 

[John_B]

Track rods replaced! I was expecting it to be an all weekend (or longer) painful slog, but in the end I had them changed and the tracking looks pretty good 'by eye' in about an hour

Proper realignment booked for Monday

I think I'll be looking to replace the tension straps, I haven't got the knack for opening and closing them yet!!