Rebody Door locks on Rebody
- Thread starter Dxbolton
- Start date
You have the original handle I sent to you so can see where that cross piece sits.
I don't think I can review the fit. I'd say you're far better than I am and you've got a door to check it on.
I don't think I can review the fit. I'd say you're far better than I am and you've got a door to check it on.
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. Mine is a bit two dimensional at the moment.I'm pleased to let you know that the 507 door handle is now live on our grassbankconversions.co.uk website here
Three handles arrived on Wednesday afternoon and, thanks to our excellent metal polishing partners, I was able to get them back all nice and shiny yesterday afternoon ready to ship the first pair next week. I have some ideas about how to make the installation process much simpler and a prototype of that (seen in the 2nd image) will be sent with the first pair next week.
The design changed again based on experience gained from previous versions and I'm delighted with the simplicity and performance of this solution. The pulley provides a low friction path from the handle lever to the Z3 lock lever. It also forms an enclosed route so it does the job of a cable guide which is to stop the cable falling off the pulley.
The position of the handle on the door aligns perfectly with the point on the lever exactly where the pull needs to happen. The widget that attaches to the Z3 lever is intended to help make the connection from the handle to the Z3 latch pretty much plug and play. The plan is that with this optional installation kit a pre-formed cable will hook over the widget whose position can be adjusted to ensure the correct amount of slack along with the necessary amount of movment before being clamped in place. The kt will also include a bond-in load spreader to help minimise the prospect of the rear M6 fixing bolt causing the 5mm thick fibreglass to craze and crack on the outside...
The balance between slackness and range of movement is important in the context of minimising the potential for deadlocking. Slackness unloads the tension on the Z3 lever. Tension on the Z3 lever is the main cause of deadlocking. Having the right amount of travel in the lever is essential to ensure that the door can be opened. The kind people at BMW ensured that the Z3 latch releases at about 60% of its way along the full range of travel. In this configuration that amounts to about 12mm along the full 20mm of travel. The pre-formed cable will be based on my door panel which is screwed directly to the Z3 panel (so no bonding agent in the way). It will be set so that the Z3 latch will have around 18mm of travel when positioned at its furthest point. I think 18 is a good number because it introduces a couple of mm of slack and has almost the full range of travel. The length of the cable is under 10cm and even allowing for contraction in cold weather this should still ensure enough slack to continue to minimise making a contribution to deadlocking.
The adjuster widget will allow for up to -4mm of adjustment so if it were to be simply moved to the opposite end of the range then it should still allow around 14mm of Z3 lever travel. The objective of the adjuster is to allow for outer door skins which end up being further away from the Z3 door panel. If it turns out that the door skin ends up being closer to the Z3 door panel then there is a Plan B and a Plan C...
Leadtime is around 4-6 weeks.
Three handles arrived on Wednesday afternoon and, thanks to our excellent metal polishing partners, I was able to get them back all nice and shiny yesterday afternoon ready to ship the first pair next week. I have some ideas about how to make the installation process much simpler and a prototype of that (seen in the 2nd image) will be sent with the first pair next week.
The design changed again based on experience gained from previous versions and I'm delighted with the simplicity and performance of this solution. The pulley provides a low friction path from the handle lever to the Z3 lock lever. It also forms an enclosed route so it does the job of a cable guide which is to stop the cable falling off the pulley.
The position of the handle on the door aligns perfectly with the point on the lever exactly where the pull needs to happen. The widget that attaches to the Z3 lever is intended to help make the connection from the handle to the Z3 latch pretty much plug and play. The plan is that with this optional installation kit a pre-formed cable will hook over the widget whose position can be adjusted to ensure the correct amount of slack along with the necessary amount of movment before being clamped in place. The kt will also include a bond-in load spreader to help minimise the prospect of the rear M6 fixing bolt causing the 5mm thick fibreglass to craze and crack on the outside...
The balance between slackness and range of movement is important in the context of minimising the potential for deadlocking. Slackness unloads the tension on the Z3 lever. Tension on the Z3 lever is the main cause of deadlocking. Having the right amount of travel in the lever is essential to ensure that the door can be opened. The kind people at BMW ensured that the Z3 latch releases at about 60% of its way along the full range of travel. In this configuration that amounts to about 12mm along the full 20mm of travel. The pre-formed cable will be based on my door panel which is screwed directly to the Z3 panel (so no bonding agent in the way). It will be set so that the Z3 latch will have around 18mm of travel when positioned at its furthest point. I think 18 is a good number because it introduces a couple of mm of slack and has almost the full range of travel. The length of the cable is under 10cm and even allowing for contraction in cold weather this should still ensure enough slack to continue to minimise making a contribution to deadlocking.
The adjuster widget will allow for up to -4mm of adjustment so if it were to be simply moved to the opposite end of the range then it should still allow around 14mm of Z3 lever travel. The objective of the adjuster is to allow for outer door skins which end up being further away from the Z3 door panel. If it turns out that the door skin ends up being closer to the Z3 door panel then there is a Plan B and a Plan C...
Leadtime is around 4-6 weeks.
Nice. Ate you able to upload a video. Mot time then
Will do, just need to shrink the file. Door cards to go on on Tuesday, then take it for MOT and hope the abs light goes out
Dxbolton
Zorg Guru (II)
I’ve done the same, no external locks, just central locking
I think forum member @Jezza uses Mustang handles.
TBH having a key barrel in the handle is a waste of time with any aftermarket handles, cos you can't use them. All they do is look good.
I have a lock barrel in my Grassbank driver's handle. It is a bit of a waste of time TBH. You can only unlock the door, not lock it, as it works off a cable and you can't 'push' a cable, only pull it.
Yes I have used Mustang handles on my 250 California but only have the remote central locking. I do also have a Grassbanks boot lock kit which uses the original Z3 solenoid and boot lock. This means I have mechanical access to the boot using the Z3 key. The key also operates both the door locks from the boot lock.
The idea of the key barrel option in the grassbank 507 handle isn't to act on the z3 central locking mechanism. It's just to prevent the button being pressed to stop curious bystanders fiddling with the pop-out lever. Also as a way to, superficially, lock the car when you nip out to grab a coffee. I kinda like it.
I've got original 507 handles on mine connected to electro switches/actuators. I also have new old stock lock barrels so could lock them with a proper key but currently not using those barrels.
I've got original 507 handles on mine connected to electro switches/actuators. I also have new old stock lock barrels so could lock them with a proper key but currently not using those barrels.
So you have two locking barrels on the same handle? Smacks as 'overkill' IMO. And it looks silly.
At the end of the day; these 'rebodies' are all about 'smoke and mirrors'; to fool the innocent bystander into thinking they are something they are not...surely?
Why would you do that? If it's for security, there is no point. If it's for ease, then it isn't easy carrying two sets of keys around.
Hi all,
This is a response to the question from @AndersFIN about the mustang handles on a 250. When I built my car I started with the mustang handles and adapted them with right angle builders brackets to increase the leverage of the push button and a pulley to enable the cable to pull down and out on the door lever mechanism, the Z3 door handle having been removed. I think the solution of the bracket was introduced by @Jezza on the dnaoc forum.
My experience relates to a couple of issues with the mustang solution. One was that the door would deadlock if the cable was too tight (mine did once). The second was that the cable would jump off the pulley if it wasn't tight enough (mine did several times). Also they mustang handles aren't particularly attractive (in my opinion).
The Grassbank 250 handles have a built in lever and a cable guide (rather than a pulley). The cable guide allows the cable to be slack and with no prospect of it coming off.
@Pond is right about the key being used for unlocking the door. Handy if your battery is flat and you can't otherwise access the car. It's also authentic looking. As are the handles.
The locking and unlocking of the car remains with the origal BMW mechanisms which are about as good as you're going to get.
Hope this is of some help
This is a response to the question from @AndersFIN about the mustang handles on a 250. When I built my car I started with the mustang handles and adapted them with right angle builders brackets to increase the leverage of the push button and a pulley to enable the cable to pull down and out on the door lever mechanism, the Z3 door handle having been removed. I think the solution of the bracket was introduced by @Jezza on the dnaoc forum.
My experience relates to a couple of issues with the mustang solution. One was that the door would deadlock if the cable was too tight (mine did once). The second was that the cable would jump off the pulley if it wasn't tight enough (mine did several times). Also they mustang handles aren't particularly attractive (in my opinion).
The Grassbank 250 handles have a built in lever and a cable guide (rather than a pulley). The cable guide allows the cable to be slack and with no prospect of it coming off.
@Pond is right about the key being used for unlocking the door. Handy if your battery is flat and you can't otherwise access the car. It's also authentic looking. As are the handles.
The locking and unlocking of the car remains with the origal BMW mechanisms which are about as good as you're going to get.
Hope this is of some help
I do not have two barrels on the same handle? I just showed the extra barrel/button beside the handle in my photo to show what the barrel/button looks like when removed from the handle.
Having a key for the door locks and another key for the ignition isn't a big problem is it? I've had cars in the past where that was just how it was.
I'd also remind you that at one point you did want to scrap all the central locking and have key locks in the handle accepting that it would mean having a different key for the handle. You've changed your mind afterwards but that doesn't mean others have to scrap the idea until we've fully explored it ourselves
This photo less confusing? The second barrel is just there to show that I do have barrels for both doors - both using the same key - with a spare key.
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Thanks! Does anyone have pictures of door handles installed and the mechanism,locks etc?The most disturbing thing I see on 250SWB:s is that the handles are installed ”too high”, I would like to install the handles lower and then potentially handle the door opening with wires or similar.
I see many of the 250 Californias are having the door handles lower down.
I see many of the 250 Californias are having the door handles lower down.